I've started a countdown until our flight out of loud, humid Miami takes us to the picturesque Emerald Isle. Can you believe it's only five weeks away? Well, you better because that's what it is.
Just this morning, I booked our rail tickets from Dublin to Tralee. We'll spend a day and half in Dublin, which isn't nearly enough, but it'll have to do because our adventure begins clear across the country in the small village of Tralee. The train ride from Dublin's Heuston Station is about four hours. During the first two, we'll have access to a dining car, but after that, we're on our own. Before we change trains in Mallow, I'll have to avail myself of the dining car and stock up on beers to take on the second leg. Imagine yourself sitting comfortably on a train, watching gorgeous, green countryside slide past whilst you sip on suds. Heavenly.
We'll spend the night in Tralee at the Greenview House, which sits right on the edge of The Dingleberry Forest. (In Ireland, they refer to it as The Dingle Way.) Convenient, to to say the least. For a small fee, the owners have agreed to transfer our stuff (that which we won't be carrying on our backs) to our next night's accommodation in Camp.
The walk from Tralee to Camp is approximately 11 miles. We'll walk past the Blennerville Windmill and then have a rather steep climb for a couple of miles until it levels out and then begins a slow descent into Camp. It shouldn't prove very difficult and will be a easy way to slip back into distance walking. (My responsibilities at the Police Academy have allowed zero time for training.)
Our first night in Camp will be spent with Mr. John Doyle, who owns the Camp Junction House. Near the end of our walk, we'll spend another night there (remember we're walking a peninsula, so we end the walk in the same place we start) and he has graciously offered to drive us back to Tralee the next morning. I don't know why, but in our last email exchange, he asked if we'd like to ride with him. It seemed like an offer I couldn't refuse, so its a date. Don't tell Doug or Mrs. Doyle.
I don't want to overwhelm or bore you with details, so I wait to describe the rest of the walk in future posts to the blog. Until then, I'll continue to study maps of the peninsula. Each time I do, the excitement builds.
Only five more weeks!
Wednesday, April 30, 2014
Sunday, April 13, 2014
New Plan!
Since we began dreaming this adventure, I'd planned to train from the Dingleberry Forest to County Mayo and then cab here and there. That is no longer the plan. Brace yourself. We're renting a car instead!!!
The great part about that, aside from the fact that the steering wheel will be on the wrong side, is that we will be in complete control. We won't have to plan around train schedules or stop doing something we're enjoying because we've got to catch the last train out. We can wander wherever our hearts lead, stay as long as we want and let Ireland decide where we go.
I'm so very glad I hadn't booked accommodations for the second part of our trip, because now we don't have to plan to be in any particular place at any particular time. The freedom of that is exhilarating!!! That means whenever we see a pub that looks like it needs our company, we pull over and have a pint. Whenever we stumble upon ruins or castles that call to us, we'll be free to reply. I think that's how Ireland is meant to be traveled; free from schedules, without a plan and with a carefree spirit.
I definitely want to spend part of a day doing the Atlantic Drive on Achill Island, which is in Westport. It's not too far from Lavell's Bar...convenient. The island is about 60 square miles, but it's actual coastline, including all the inlets and spars, measures over 80 miles. In many places, the road follows the shoreline and two particular stretches are damn near legendary because of the spectacular views they afford.
Along the route, we'll find Kildavnet Tower (Cill Damhnait if you speak the lingo) overlooking the waters of Achill Sound. The name means "the small church of Davenet" and refers to the 7th century Saint Dympna who built a small church nearby. I'll have to get busy building something cool so that when I am sainted, it can be named after me. I think Pub Saint Pattie sounds nice.
The tower is three stories (about 40 ft tall) and is believed to be built by the O'Malley Clan in 1429. That's older than Dougie for those of you keeping track. Its most famous tenant was the legendary pirate queen Granuaille. That is until, of course, I move in and change all that.
Rumor is that the stretch from Cloughmore to Dooega offers the most spectacular coastal scenery in Ireland - except for that found on the Dingle Peninsula. Lucky us...we get to see both! Along the way we'll find some wonderful pubs and traditional music. As this area is part of Gaeltacht, meaning Irish speaking, we'll be swimming in history. I look forward to hearing the speech of my forefathers...and drinking their national drink. Often and with regularity.
The great part about that, aside from the fact that the steering wheel will be on the wrong side, is that we will be in complete control. We won't have to plan around train schedules or stop doing something we're enjoying because we've got to catch the last train out. We can wander wherever our hearts lead, stay as long as we want and let Ireland decide where we go.
I'm so very glad I hadn't booked accommodations for the second part of our trip, because now we don't have to plan to be in any particular place at any particular time. The freedom of that is exhilarating!!! That means whenever we see a pub that looks like it needs our company, we pull over and have a pint. Whenever we stumble upon ruins or castles that call to us, we'll be free to reply. I think that's how Ireland is meant to be traveled; free from schedules, without a plan and with a carefree spirit.
I definitely want to spend part of a day doing the Atlantic Drive on Achill Island, which is in Westport. It's not too far from Lavell's Bar...convenient. The island is about 60 square miles, but it's actual coastline, including all the inlets and spars, measures over 80 miles. In many places, the road follows the shoreline and two particular stretches are damn near legendary because of the spectacular views they afford.
Along the route, we'll find Kildavnet Tower (Cill Damhnait if you speak the lingo) overlooking the waters of Achill Sound. The name means "the small church of Davenet" and refers to the 7th century Saint Dympna who built a small church nearby. I'll have to get busy building something cool so that when I am sainted, it can be named after me. I think Pub Saint Pattie sounds nice.
The tower is three stories (about 40 ft tall) and is believed to be built by the O'Malley Clan in 1429. That's older than Dougie for those of you keeping track. Its most famous tenant was the legendary pirate queen Granuaille. That is until, of course, I move in and change all that.
Rumor is that the stretch from Cloughmore to Dooega offers the most spectacular coastal scenery in Ireland - except for that found on the Dingle Peninsula. Lucky us...we get to see both! Along the way we'll find some wonderful pubs and traditional music. As this area is part of Gaeltacht, meaning Irish speaking, we'll be swimming in history. I look forward to hearing the speech of my forefathers...and drinking their national drink. Often and with regularity.
Friday, April 4, 2014
Castles, hawks and pubs, oh my!
I've been researching my Lavell family history and am pleased to say I've found several Lavells still living in County Mayo. I've spoken with a relative living in Great Britain - my great, great, great grandparents Martin and Bridget Lavell are also in his family tree. His last name is not Lavell, but I've forgiven him that.
I'm continue an internal debate about where to go and for how long after Lauren and I complete our walk of the Dingleberry Forest (the Dingle Peninsula if you're trying to locate it on a map). I want to go to Westport to Lavell's Bar and meet a famous storyteller named Mic Lavell...if he's still in fact on this side of the grass. The reports are mixed. County Mayo is a big place and there are lots of places to look for/find Lavells, (pubs) but I continue to be drawn to Castlebar. I can't explain it, but there's been a constant pull from that market town for far too long to ignore.
Castles will definitely play into where we visit and how long we stay. I've started to compile a list of castles and castle ruins in County Mayo and well, let me say this: we'd have to stay several weeks to see them all. We're going to have to pick and choose and that won't be easy. Lauren and I are passionate about castles. Our favorites are those without other visitors, through which the wind blows, where the imagination takes over and the past seems close enough to touch. Ruins can be magical if you're in the proper frame of mind.
Lauren and I would be content to wander around ruins for days on end, but we'll have Dougie with us at that point and we'll have to keep him entertained. He'll tolerate climbing over walls and rocks for a bit, but not very long. I'm thinking horseback riding (can you picture Doug on a horse?) and Ireland's School of Falconry would be great family fun. The oldest established Falconry school in Ireland is on the grounds of Ashford Castle, which is mind-blowingly gorgeous. On their one hour, private "Hawk Walk", we can have a hawk land on our gloved arm and set it to fly around the grounds of the castle. Very cool. For a mere $2,000, we can spend two nights in the castle, too. Bargain.
I still have a lot of work to do, but one thing is for certain. In nine weeks, Lauren and I will be on our way to my Dad's homeland. Ireland, you've been warned.
I'm continue an internal debate about where to go and for how long after Lauren and I complete our walk of the Dingleberry Forest (the Dingle Peninsula if you're trying to locate it on a map). I want to go to Westport to Lavell's Bar and meet a famous storyteller named Mic Lavell...if he's still in fact on this side of the grass. The reports are mixed. County Mayo is a big place and there are lots of places to look for/find Lavells, (pubs) but I continue to be drawn to Castlebar. I can't explain it, but there's been a constant pull from that market town for far too long to ignore.
Castles will definitely play into where we visit and how long we stay. I've started to compile a list of castles and castle ruins in County Mayo and well, let me say this: we'd have to stay several weeks to see them all. We're going to have to pick and choose and that won't be easy. Lauren and I are passionate about castles. Our favorites are those without other visitors, through which the wind blows, where the imagination takes over and the past seems close enough to touch. Ruins can be magical if you're in the proper frame of mind.
Lauren and I would be content to wander around ruins for days on end, but we'll have Dougie with us at that point and we'll have to keep him entertained. He'll tolerate climbing over walls and rocks for a bit, but not very long. I'm thinking horseback riding (can you picture Doug on a horse?) and Ireland's School of Falconry would be great family fun. The oldest established Falconry school in Ireland is on the grounds of Ashford Castle, which is mind-blowingly gorgeous. On their one hour, private "Hawk Walk", we can have a hawk land on our gloved arm and set it to fly around the grounds of the castle. Very cool. For a mere $2,000, we can spend two nights in the castle, too. Bargain.
I still have a lot of work to do, but one thing is for certain. In nine weeks, Lauren and I will be on our way to my Dad's homeland. Ireland, you've been warned.
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