Today was a day we'd planned to catch a ferry to Great Blasket, which is three miles off the shore of Dunquin - by Irish measurement, which means it's actually anywhere from five to twelve miles. These grand people measure distance in a way I've yet to comprehend. No matter. Lauren's sun burn is still too painful to even consider a boat ride to an island without any trees or shelter. It would be ludicrous, so today is another rest day.
I'd be lying if I said I was thrilled about that. A body in motion tends to stay in motion, and I want to be in motion. However, after a slow breakfast, we walked a half mile or so to the Blasket Center. It's a museum of sorts and tells the story of the Blaskets Islands and their people. It grabbed me. I was completely consumed by the raw beauty of the islands and the stories of the people who lived there. Don't worry; I didn't have another out-of-body experience, so calm yourself.
In the early 1900's several Blasket Island dwellers became authors. Their lives and tales were certainly unique and the fact that they were among the few to keep the Irish language alive before it was cool, is of great importance. I visited the Center's bookstore and bought two books that I am anxious to devour. That will likely have to wait until the trip home (if I go back), because days of walking, followed by dinner and blogging leave little time to read. Having said that, I now carry the books on my back each day. It makes me feel closer to them and their history. I suppose I've gone full-blown loco. So be it. I'm happy.
We spent a lazy day playing cards, hanging out in our B&B's lounge using their wifi, talking to our new Brit friends and applying meds to Lauren's burn. Dinner was ... another tasteless affair. I'll stop there because I'd hate to sound like I'm complaining. We're warm, dry and our bellies are full. We can ask for nothing more.
As we wound down the evening in the lounge, four German women came in. They'd walked the trail, too, and they were a certainly a breath of fresh air. They were hard core; drinking beer hard and fast and then ordering a couple bottles of wine. I liked them! We sat and chatted about all sorts of things; some of them spoke good English and when they didn't, we enjoyed the sounds of German. Somewhere around midnight, I told Lauren we HAD to go to bed. The Germans stayed and drank more wine in the dark, keeping our innkeepers up into the wee hours. We heard them walk by our room - our windows were open to allow the cool night air in - and they were loud. I would have enjoyed walking with them, if I was capable of keeping up with their breakneck pace.
It was a bit of a slow day, but I spent it in the very best of company. My girl's hurting, but she never complains. I hope we can hit the trail in the morning.
As I lie in bed, I look out at the mountains beyond. They are beautiful even in the low light of night. They keep a silent watch, waiting for us to join them. Hopefully tomorrow. I hear Lauren's breathing lengthen and I smile in the dark. We are in Ireland and my heart is happy. I drift off knowing I am indeed blessed.
Our 24 Day Itinerary
Day 1 Dublin to Marlay Park 7 miles
Day 2 Knockree 12.5 miles
Day 3 Baltynanima 11 miles
Day 4 Glendalough 8.5 miles
Day 5 Moyne 13 miles
Day 6 Tinahely 9.5 miles
Day 7 Kilquiggan 8 miles
Day 8 Clonegal 13 miles
Day 9 Tonduff 11.5 miles
Day 10 Graiguenamanagh 12 miles
Day 11 Inistioge 10 miles
Day 12 Lukeswell 16.6 miles
Day 13 Piltown 11.5 miles
Day 14 Kilsheelan 12.5 miles
Day 15 Clonmel 11 miles
Day 16 Newcastle 13 miles
Day 17 Clogheen 13.5 miles
Day 18 Araglin 12.5 miles
Day 19 Kilworth 12.5 miles
Day 20 Ballyhooly 13 miles
Day 21 Killavullen 7.5 miles
Day 22 Ballynamona 9.5 miles
Day 23 Bweeng 11 miles
Day 24 Millstreet Country Park 19 miles
Day 25 Millstreet 6 miles
Day 26 Strone 14 miles
Day 27 Muckross 12.5 miles
Day 28 Black Valley 12.5 miles
Day 29 Glencar 14 miles
Day 30 Glenbeigh 8 miles
Day 31 Cahersiveen 13.75 miles
Day 32 Portmagee 15.5 miles
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