Settling In

I spent a bit of time down in the pub at Caitin's last night, listening to the music. It was very nice traditional stuff...and then the musicians played Frank Sanatra's New York, NY and Michael Jackson's Billy Jean. I went to bed. Let me clarify; there's nothing wrong with those songs, but I didn't fly across the pond and walk sixty miles to hear them. Funny thing, though, from my bed, the music was just as loud as it had been downstairs. I let them sing me to sleep. That was 11pm.

I woke with a start at 3pm, as people began to wander upstairs to their rooms. They weren't quiet about it, but I didn't mind. I had a private room. I had to wander down the hall to the "toilet", but it wasn't a huge deal. At four am, the Irish boys were still crooning. I still didn't mind. About 4:30am, someone tried cramming their key into the lock of my door. I told them they had the wrong room. They told me to feck off. I rolled over and went to sleep. At 8:30am, I woke, somehow very well rested.

I'd slept eleven hours since arriving at the hostel, in three separate chunks, and I felt ready to face the day. My toe felt the best it had in days - I'd been off of it for practically 19 hours.

I went downstairs to the kitchen, made a cup of instant coffee, and downed four Advil. That was breakfast. I packed up and headed off in a light rain. (Let me say that for $35 euro, I got a private room with a single bed, a shared toilet, three pints of Smithwick's, a beef stew dinner and dessert, a cup of coffee, linens, and a towel. If you are ever in Kells, you must go to Caitin's. What a freakin' bargain.)

The size and color of my little toe convinced me that climbing back to the trail head was not a good idea. It had to be two miles uphill, just to connect with the Kerry Way, which would be uphill and down hill all day. (That's the worse thing for this trick toe.) I decided to cheat and take the road (the Ring of Kerry) all the way from Kells to Cahersiveen. It was kind of cheating because I wouldn't be climbing mountains, but not really because I'd still be walking.

About two miles into it, my belly said it needed food. Its timing was perfect, because I stumbled upon a restaurant/shop/ hostel. A sign on the door indicated that take away was upstairs. I took my stinky self up there, wearing the same clothes I've been wearing for five days. When you carry everything on your back, there is no changing clothes after a shower....you get clean and then put your stinky clothes back on. Disgusting, but that's how it's done.

I walked into a huge dining room, which was completely empty, except for  a young girl behind the counter. When she asked if I wanted breakfast, I asked if I could get a sandwich for take away. She went back into the kitchen to set about making that happen when I heard a voice behind me. Sitting at a table was an older gentleman that I didn't notice on my way in. He was wearing a tweed jacket with elbow patches, slacks, and dress shoes. He had no food or drink on the table in front of him.

Him: "How's the foot?"
Me: "Excuse me?"
Him: "Are ye gettin' by?" (He points at my bad toe.)
Me: "How'd you know?"
Him: "I was at Caitin's last night. Saw you sufferin'."
Me: "I didn't see you."
Him: "Hmmmm. Pull out yer map."

I just stared at the man until he asked me again to take out me map.

Hin: "Since you don't want to climb, you should take the road to here. Then take the cycling path - across the road will be a white-washed cottage. The woman inside will give you directions. From there, just take it to the end, where it will meet with the main road again. You'll be fine."
Me: "Cheers. Thank you so much."
Him:"My name is Paddy."
Me: "I'm Patti!"
Him: "Aye."

At that point the young girl called me back to the register to pay. I thanked the man again and walked to the register. As I dug out the correct change, I mentioned how much I appreciated the kind gentleman's help. She looked confused and asked,"What man?"

The dining room was empty. I paid for my sandwich and got the hell out. What just happened? There was a man there who helped me find an alternative route and then he was gone. Was I the only one who saw him?

Eight miles later, after walking past many farms full of heifers, bulls, sheep, and dung, I arrived in Cahersiveen. What a perfect day of farm walking. My Dad would have loved this day's walk. No surprise that my B&B wasn't ready. I dropped my pack and poles and headed into town. I discovered that a castle was on the outskirts. My toe felt the best it had in days, so I went for it. Three miles later, I walked up to Ballycarbery Castle. Unlike other castle experiences I've had, I couldn't wait to get away from this one. It wasn't a pleasant place to be. Surprising, because I always find it hard to leave them. Not this one. I couldn't get away soon enough.

So after walking ten miles, I walked an additional six to see a castle. It was certainly beautiful, but not a place that my soul wanted to stay. I stopped at a pub on my way back to the B&B for two pints. The rain was relentless, the wind was howling, and I was smelly and soaked. I soon left and stopped at a shop where I bought a loaf of bread for dinner and headed for my B&B. After a hot shower, I'm hunkered down. It's raining like hell and the wind is howling, (this is summer?)but the radiator in my room is working, so I'm getting warm and dry. I don't know what tomorrow will bring. It's almost 21 miles to Waterville and I don't think I can walk that far...however, I did 16+ today, so it's possible.

Many thanks to the man who showed me the alternative route - whomever you are! Cheers and Godspeed.

I miss my family. I love Ireland. Somehow I have to reconcile the two. My heart is here...and so are my heifers, donkeys, sheep, goats, and chickens.

Slan.